The Complete Guide to Rolex: History, Iconic Models & Investment Value

The Crown That Changed Watchmaking

Few brands in any industry command the instant recognition that Rolex enjoys. Founded in London in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis, Rolex has spent over a century defining what a luxury wristwatch should be. Today, the name is synonymous with precision, durability and prestige.

At Sterling Diamond in Burlington Arcade, we have had the privilege of handling hundreds of Rolex timepieces — from pristine modern references to rare vintage examples that tell the story of 20th-century horology. This guide distils everything we know into a single, comprehensive resource.

Rolex close-up on wrist

A Brief History of Rolex

The Early Years (1905–1945)

Hans Wilsdorf had a radical idea: wristwatches could be just as accurate as pocket watches. In 1910, a Rolex wristwatch became the first to receive the Swiss Certificate of Chronometric Precision from the Official Watch Rating Centre in Bienne. By 1926, Rolex had patented the Oyster case — the world's first waterproof wristwatch case — and proved it by strapping one to Mercedes Gleitze as she swam the English Channel in 1927.

The Golden Age (1945–1970)

The post-war era saw Rolex introduce many of its most iconic models:

• Datejust (1945) — the first self-winding wristwatch with a date display
• Submariner (1953) — the definitive dive watch, water-resistant to 100 metres
• GMT-Master (1955) — created for Pan Am pilots to track two time zones
• Day-Date (1956) — the first watch to display both day and date, instantly dubbed "The President"
• Daytona (1963) — designed for motorsport timing, now one of the most collectible watches ever made

The Modern Era (1970–Present)

Rolex weathered the quartz crisis by doubling down on mechanical excellence. The brand introduced ceramic bezels, the Parachrom hairspring, and the Chromalight display. Production remains deliberately limited — Rolex produces an estimated 800,000 to 1 million watches per year, far fewer than demand requires.

Luxury Rolex timepiece

Iconic Rolex Models Explained

Rolex Submariner

The Submariner is arguably the most important dive watch ever created. Introduced in 1953 (ref. 6204), it established the template that every dive watch since has followed: rotating bezel, luminous markers, and serious water resistance.

Key references to know:

• Ref. 5513 (1962–1989) — the no-date Submariner, a collector favourite
• Ref. 16610 (1989–2010) — the first Submariner with a sapphire crystal
• Ref. 126610LN (2020–present) — 41mm case, calibre 3235, 70-hour power reserve

Rolex Daytona

Originally a slow seller, the Cosmograph Daytona became the world's most sought-after chronograph after Paul Newman was photographed wearing one. "Paul Newman" dial variants now fetch seven figures at auction.

Key references to know:

• Ref. 6239 (1963–1969) — the original "Paul Newman" Daytona
• Ref. 16520 (1988–2000) — Zenith El Primero movement, highly collectible
• Ref. 116500LN (2016–2023) — Cerachrom bezel, modern classic
• Ref. 126500LN (2023–present) — updated case and movement

Rolex GMT-Master II

Created for intercontinental travellers, the GMT-Master tracks a second time zone via an independently adjustable 24-hour hand and a bi-colour rotating bezel.

Iconic bezel combinations:

• "Pepsi" (blue/red) — the original Pan Am livery
• "Batman" (blue/black) — introduced in 2013
• "Root Beer" (brown/black) — warm two-tone elegance
• "Sprite" (green/black) — the latest left-handed reference

Rolex as an Investment

Over the past two decades, pre-owned Rolex prices have consistently outperformed traditional investments. A stainless steel Daytona purchased at retail in 2016 for approximately £8,550 now trades above £25,000 on the secondary market.

Factors that drive Rolex value:

1. Scarcity — production is deliberately limited
2. Brand recognition — universal desirability supports resale
3. Build quality — Rolex watches last generations with proper servicing
4. Condition — box, papers and service history significantly affect value
5. Provenance — celebrity or historically significant ownership adds premium

Which Rolex Models Hold Value Best?

Buying a Pre-Owned Rolex: What to Look For

When purchasing a pre-owned Rolex, authentication is paramount. At Sterling Diamond, every timepiece undergoes a rigorous inspection process:

1. Serial and model number verification against Rolex records
2. Movement inspection by our certified watchmakers
3. Case and bracelet assessment for originality and condition
4. Dial authenticity — replacement dials significantly affect value
5. Documentation — original box, papers, warranty card and service records

Red Flags to Avoid

• Prices significantly below market value
• Sellers unwilling to provide detailed photographs
• Missing or mismatched serial numbers
• "Franken-watches" assembled from parts of different references
• Refinished dials or replaced bezels without disclosure

Servicing Your Rolex

Rolex recommends servicing every 10 years for modern calibres (previously every 5 years). A full Rolex service includes:

• Complete disassembly and ultrasonic cleaning
• Replacement of worn components
• Re-lubrication with approved oils
• Timing regulation and waterproofness testing
• Case and bracelet refinishing (if requested)

Cost: A standard Rolex service through an authorised service centre ranges from £500 to £900 depending on the model and complications.

Visit Sterling Diamond

Our Burlington Arcade showroom houses a curated selection of pre-owned Rolex watches, each authenticated and presented with our guarantee. Whether you are seeking your first Rolex or adding to an established collection, our specialists are here to guide you.

Sterling Diamond — Burlington Arcade, Mayfair, London W1J 0QJ