Bespoke Jewellery: The Art of Custom Design at Burlington Arcade

The Beauty of Bespoke

There is something profoundly special about wearing a piece of jewellery that exists nowhere else in the world — designed for you, crafted by hand, and imbued with personal meaning that no off-the-shelf piece can replicate.

Bespoke jewellery is the ultimate expression of individuality. At Sterling Diamond in Burlington Arcade, Mayfair, we have been creating custom pieces for discerning clients for years, continuing a tradition of master craftsmanship that has defined this historic arcade since 1819.

Whether you are commissioning an engagement ring, reimagining an heirloom, or creating a piece to mark a milestone, this guide walks you through every stage of the bespoke journey.

Master jeweller at work in the workshop

The Bespoke Process: Step by Step

Step 1: The Consultation

Every bespoke piece begins with a conversation. During your initial consultation at our Burlington Arcade showroom, we explore:

• Your vision — do you have a clear idea, or would you like us to guide you?
• The occasion — engagement, anniversary, birthday, or simply because
• Style preferences — classic, contemporary, vintage, Art Deco, minimalist
• Gemstone preferences — diamonds, coloured gemstones, or a combination
• Metal preferences — platinum, 18ct gold (yellow, white or rose), or mixed metals
• Budget — we design to your budget, never the other way around
• Timeline — standard bespoke takes 4–8 weeks; rush commissions are possible

There is no obligation at this stage. Many clients visit two or three times before finalising their brief.

Step 2: Design and Sketching

Our designer translates your brief into visual concepts. This typically involves:

• Hand sketches — initial concepts exploring different approaches
• Mood boards — reference images, material samples and gemstone options
• CAD (Computer-Aided Design) renderings — precise 3D models that show the piece from every angle, with accurate proportions and gemstone placement

You will receive detailed renderings for review and can request as many revisions as needed. We want you to be completely confident before we proceed to production.

Step 3: Gemstone Selection

If your piece includes gemstones, we source a curated selection for you to choose from. Every diamond and gemstone is:

• Independently certified (GIA, IGI or equivalent)
• Hand-selected by our gemstone specialist for quality and beauty
• Presented in person so you can compare stones side by side under different lighting conditions

For diamonds, we guide you through the 4Cs (Cut, Colour, Clarity and Carat) to find the perfect balance of quality and value. For coloured gemstones, we consider origin, colour saturation, treatment status and optical properties.

Step 4: Wax Model and Approval

Before casting in precious metal, we create a wax model of your piece. This physical prototype allows you to:

• See the exact size and proportions in three dimensions
• Try the piece on (for rings) to check comfort and fit
• Make final adjustments before committing to metal

The wax model stage is your last opportunity for design changes at no additional cost.

Step 5: Casting

The approved wax model is used to create a mould, and molten precious metal is poured in using the lost-wax casting technique — a method that has been used by jewellers for over 5,000 years. The wax melts away, leaving a precise metal replica.

For platinum pieces, casting requires temperatures exceeding 1,700°C and specialist equipment. Our workshop is fully equipped for platinum, gold and palladium casting.

Step 6: Setting

Stone setting is one of the most skilled operations in jewellery making. Our master setters secure each gemstone by hand, using techniques appropriate to the design:

• Claw (prong) setting — metal claws grip the stone, maximising light exposure
• Bezel setting — a metal rim encircles the stone for maximum security
• Pavé setting — tiny beads of metal hold small diamonds in a continuous surface
• Channel setting — stones sit between parallel metal walls
• Invisible setting — stones are held by grooves cut into their girdles, with no visible metal

Step 7: Finishing and Hallmarking

The final stages transform a cast piece into a work of art:

• Polishing — surfaces are brought to a mirror finish or satin texture as specified
• Rhodium plating — applied to white gold pieces for a bright, white finish
• Engraving — personal inscriptions, dates or messages added if requested
• Hallmarking — every piece is sent to the London Assay Office for official hallmarking, guaranteeing the purity of the precious metal
• Quality inspection — our final check ensures every detail meets our standards

Exquisite gold jewellery craftsmanship

Timeline and Pricing

How Long Does Bespoke Take?

For time-sensitive commissions (proposals, anniversaries), we offer an expedited service that can deliver in as little as 2–3 weeks.

Pricing

Bespoke jewellery pricing depends on:

• Complexity of design — intricate designs require more labour hours
• Precious metal — platinum costs more than gold; weight affects price
• Gemstones — the primary cost driver for most pieces
• Setting complexity — pavé and invisible settings require more skilled labour

Starting prices:

• Bespoke engagement ring: from £3,000
• Bespoke pendant: from £1,500
• Bespoke earrings: from £2,000
• Bespoke bracelet: from £3,500

Remodelling Heirloom Pieces

One of the most meaningful bespoke commissions is remodelling an heirloom — transforming a cherished but unworn family piece into something contemporary and wearable.

Common Remodelling Projects

• Grandmother's engagement ring reimagined in a modern setting
• Inherited diamonds reset into a new piece (ring, pendant or earrings)
• Outdated designs updated while preserving sentimental stones
• Combining stones from multiple family pieces into a single new creation

The Remodelling Process

1. We assess the existing piece and its components
2. Gemstones are carefully removed and evaluated
3. We discuss design options for the new piece
4. The original metal can often be recycled and incorporated
5. The new piece is created following our standard bespoke process

Remodelling is a beautiful way to honour family history while creating something you will actually wear and enjoy every day.

Why Choose Bespoke at Sterling Diamond?

• Burlington Arcade heritage — we are part of London's most prestigious jewellery destination
• Master craftsmen — our jewellers have decades of experience in bespoke creation
• Ethically sourced materials — we use conflict-free diamonds and responsibly sourced gemstones
• London Assay Office hallmarking — every piece carries the official guarantee of metal purity
• Aftercare — complimentary cleaning, inspection and maintenance for the life of your piece
• Personal service — you work directly with our designer and gemstone specialist throughout

Book Your Consultation

Visit our Burlington Arcade showroom in the heart of Mayfair to begin your bespoke journey. We welcome walk-ins, but recommend booking a consultation for bespoke commissions so we can dedicate our full attention to your project.

Sterling Diamond — Burlington Arcade, Mayfair, London W1J 0QJ